Photo basic knowledge summary
1. The aperture shutter and its interrelationic aperture are mechanical devices that can change the size of the intermediate holes in the camera lens, and the shutter is a device (mechanical or electron) that controls the length of exposure time, combined, and co-controls the amount of exposure. The related pictures of this topic are as follows: For example, the light is better than the water flow, the lens is equivalent to a hole that can control the water flow direction and the flow of the water gate. The aperture is the size of the hole, the shutter is the time of opening. When the opening time is changed, the smaller the hole, the less the water flowing, the more it is. When the shutter speed is constant, the aperture is suitable (for example, F5.6), the exposure is normal, the aperture is too large (for example, F2.8), exposed excessive, photo (the front, not a negative film), a white flower, no level, even One white paper; the aperture is too small (for example, F11), the exposure is insufficient, the photo is black, and the low-light part level is not even image. When the size of the hole is constant, the longer the opening time, the more water flowing, the less it. Therefore, when the aperture must, the shutter speed is suitable (for example, 1/250 second), the exposure is normal, the shutter is folded, the longer the exposure time, the exposure, the faster the shutter speed (for example, 1/1000 seconds) Insufficient exposure. It should be noted that although the aperture and shutter can control the amount of exposure, it is not equivalent. The smaller the aperture, the more concentrated the direction of the light, the easier, the easier of the film (or CCD), and the more clear imaging, (of course, the aperture is too small, the diffraction, but the blur) The larger depth is, and the contrary is small. So, when you need to accurately control the depth of field, you can determine the size of the aperture and then determine the shutter speed. When shooting a moving object, if the shutter is turned too long, the moving object is imaged in different parts of the negative film (or CCD), and the photos taken are of course not clear. In contrast, when the shutter is very fast, the momentum is on the film The imaging has not been obvious, the exposure process has been completed, and the photo is clear, that is, the motion is solidified on the screen, so when shooting the motion, you can choose the quick shutter speed as possible, then adjust the aperture, and expose it correctly. Of course, if you want to leave a motion trajectory on the photo, enhance the dynamic, you can choose a relatively slow shutter speed. It is especially important to flash photography, properly selecting shutters and apertures, and can control the light ratio of flash and other light. Since the flash time of the electronic flash now is very short, only about one thousand seconds, so when the shutter speed is synchronized with it (the so-called synchronization, the time to turn the flash in the shutter, the time period before turning off Inside, otherwise, the shutter is not completely opened, or it is closed, the flash is meaningless, even on a portion of the film, after shooting, the shooting failed), there is no effect in the exposure time. Therefore, the function of the flash is controlled by the aperture, and the role of continuous ambient light (such as other lights in the night scene) is controlled by the shutter, properly selects the exposure combination, and can create perfect art effects. 2. Ten good suggestions for the primary photographer 1. It is a good suggestion 1, before pressing the shutter, check if there are some things influencing the "head" of the subject (it makes They stretched out). The tree fork is usually a starter.
Look at the comparison of the two images, is it this truth? 2. Similar objects such as walls can reflect the light of the flash to the subject. If there is no such object, it is best not to use a flash. Otherwise, the photo taken will be very black. Typical examples are in concerts, many flash effects unless you are on the edge of the stage. 3. Determine if the camera is parallel or perpendicular to the ground. Otherwise, the photo is oblived, this is a problem that is very disable. 4, making the subject and background have appropriate differences in the tone or hue, form a distinct contrast. This can be achieved by adjusting the aperture. The larger the aperture, the more blurred the background, which can highlight the body. Of course, we have to adjust according to the actual situation. 5, when shooting at sunset, turn off the flash to avoid the photo too dim. 6, most cameras focus on the central area of the image. If the subject is on both sides of the focus, the focus of the camera will happen. The general camera has a focus lock function. You can use it to align the camera, so she or he will appear in the center of the photo. Then press the shutter button halfway. Keep it until you have successful, you can press the shutter so you can get sharp images. 7. When shooting, try to use the camera's infinite mode (if any). Otherwise, the focusing system may think that the glass is subject, the image will be very blurred. This is useful when shooting a tall building (usually there are many glass windows) or inside. 8, try to carry the same as possible to carry the 忠 碇 碇 羌 羌 羌 羌 羌 阌 阌 阌 倚 倚 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢 岢The journey waved 馐 馐 匆 匆 藕 榘 榘 榘 榘 榘 榘 榘 榘 榘 榘 榘 榘 榘? 9, try not to use the camera on the beach unless it has a solid outdoor protection camera. Any intimate contact with the sand will cause the camera to block. 10, when shooting portraits such as a bar or club in a dark room, you usually use the flash. So, you may wish to let them first look at the bright light before shooting. This reduces the phenomenon of red eye. 3. The wonderful world under the B door (using long exposure) "B door" under the wonderful world "B door" The controlled exposure is also a process of personal creation. "B" "B" "B" in the dictionary is BULB, which refers to the conventional spherical pneumatic shutter-release release, or a flash bulb that utilized in flash exposure. However, a slightly creative photographer believes that "B" is actually synonymous with Boundless (unlimited). "B" is different from other shutter speeds, and photographers can use it to control the shutter switch from any time outside of 1 second, and take this into the world of fantasy. When you enter the "BRL" area, you can see the singular sights outside the traditional photo, such as the trajectory of the night sky, rainbow-like light, no one's street view and the basics of using brilliant sky ... Requirements are a camera having a B door that enables shutter to open a long time exposure, a relatively stable tripod and a manual shutter line. When shooting, it is preferred to have a super-sensitivity handheld meter, because many camera's built-in metering tables cannot correctly measure the amount of light on the dark scenes that may occur during shooting. (Nothing is not called, take a few more people.) Experienced photographers in B door photography often recommends as grading exposure as much as possible while shooting, as this can make the effect more changes. They also admit that although the most successful BRL exposure comes from inspiration, a more sensitive metering table can provide a foundation for hierarchical exposure.
Photographers who are good at shooting night view pointed out that when using B, when the B door is exposed, the camera is not jitter, one of the best methods is to release the shutter, with a black cardboard, before the lens. This approach has an advantage that you can change the focal length or aperture during exposure. If it is in the adjustment, you must make the camera to happen before proceeding, you must determine that the camera has stopped jitter, which is especially important for the use of longer focal length lens. The related pictures of this topic are as follows: Using the B door for a long time exposure, the problem that is easy to produce is the so-called "fly-fault failure" that photographers often say. This happens when the color film is used to expose a second to a longer period of time. Fundamentally, long exposure can change the color balance of the film, and the appearance of this phenomenon, photographers are often difficult to expect. In general, there is nothing simple approach to solve the problem of failure, so that each shoot can get accurate exposure. British photographer David Williams puts forward a simple practice, "On the basis of calculating exposure, take a few more than a few more exposure times." Williams pointed out that long-term exposure pairs must be recorded for the exposure time and aperture used for each photo. In addition, you can use a variety of exposure indices to make up for the lack of failure of the failure. One way is to increase total exposure, increase 1/2 1 L-class aperture for 1-9 seconds; add 1-2 grade aperture for 10-99 seconds; exposure 100 seconds to increase 2-3 stage aperture . Similar to this index refers to the general situation, it is not possible to treat it as a constant thing, especially when using different film, it should be determined. In short, to solve the problem of failure of the law, mainly by test, and gradually explore some experience in practice by re-comparing the recorded content and the results obtained. Pick up your camera, don't hesitate!
4. Some technological photography of architectural photography does not have to have a complete image or rulert pattern, any unique perspective and bright details can create a wonderful architectural photo. combine different shooting angles with light, and absolutely capture the medieval houses into very professional architectural pictures. For architectural photography, it is best to deal with the design volume and geometric ratio - the vertical line should also be vertical on the photo. When the camera lens is facing up, the same line will be converged, the closer position of the photographer station is, the more obvious this effect is, and the wide-angle lens can be exaggerated, the effect is very strong. Use a wide-angle lens to shoot buildings inside, and use a telephoto lens to leave a house or building with a background, emphasizing a detail. There are two very attractive angles that are extremely low camera positions and fish-eye view. Any extreme horizontal or vertical shooting angle can take amazing photos. In portrait and landscape photography, photographers often use the camera's panoramic shooting settings. It can also consider using panorama when building photography, sometimes, panoramic photos can express classical buildings. In any case, architectural photography must have the correct lighting, so that the photos taken will not be a failure. Therefore, as a photographer who focuses on building buildings, it is necessary to grasp the buildings of different textures, different surfaces, and different structures. For example, the color effect of the glass house and the earth building is not the same. Depending on the results of the observation, you can choose to best express the color of the building: early morning, afternoon or at dusk. The photo effect of different times in a year is also different: the photos taken in the summer have a strong emotional color, the winter landscape is suitable for expressing black and white abstract painting, and the building is better in the old age. Interior exposure and night shooting are more complicated as well known, photographing such scenarios may cost a full roll of film. Choosing different films will also affect the final effect of the architectural photos you take. Building photography is not necessarily to take a grand building, and we usually see street views, and civilians can be an object of architectural photography. The key is to have a good color and a unique angle. In some cases, black and white photos often express an additional architectural photography effect - especially suitable for photographing old buildings. When shooting a photo photo with a digital camera: Do not shoot photos in the backlight, try to choose the highest resolution room when taking pictures, so that the camera is better, so that the subject gets the best performance through the LCD display. The screen must be selected when taking a photo in the scene, you must use the tripod to use panoramic mode to get panoramic photos (remember to use tripod) This topic is as follows:
5. How to prevent the camera from shaking? Digital zoom tends to generate a wonderful photo that makes us satisfied, but its long focus is also brought trouble, the longer the focal length, the easier, the easier, the shake caused by the unstable camera. Due to the shaking of the camera, many of the original photos are destroyed, and the image becomes blurred. The larger image magnification is, the more obvious the blur. When the camera cannot be fixed, it will sway. Sometimes, this is really caused by your operational error, but there are some natural objective factors, such as subtle earthquakes will definitely cause the camera to shake (but can be ignored), and regardless of the camera's support, the camera The internal device is also sufficient to cause shake. If you use some measures to moderately reduce the upset of upsetting cameras. To generate a clearer photo, we must pay attention to the skill of the camera. Today, the diversification of camera configuration makes the camera have a lot of choices in avoiding camera shaking. The most common method of processing camera shaking using a triangle, synchronous shutter line, Selfie is to use a solid tripod. Place the camera in a solid, flat surface, do not put on the unstable surface or uneven ground, otherwise the chance will sway, or will move during exposure. But using a tripod, you can't fully guarantee that the photos taken are clear. When the wind is large, the photo effect will also be destroyed. Trains with more or full load of cargo nearby, will also sway the ground, which in turn affects the stability of the three-pool placed on the ground. Mechanical movements in the camera and artificial operating cameras also shake the cameras placed on the tripod. Sometimes we need to add weights on the tripod to increase the stability of the tripod, such as hovering a kettle or bag covered with water in the middle of the tripod. We will definitely think of the most common shutter synchronization lines in the triangle and other supporters. The shutter synchronous line can indeed prevent the camera from shaking to a certain extent, but unfortunately, many cameras now have this device. Fortunately, there are now a remote control. Its work has some restrictions. In addition, you can use your own timer, how is the Selfie? In fact, each modern camera is generally equipped with Selfie. It is a very waste of time and difficult to grasp when shooting mobile objects, but when shooting a still object, this method is still very useful. There are other two support methods, one of which does not require cable or remote control, called a single-legged frame (auntie as a triprade with only one leg), and a chest that can be placed on your chest, It may be uncomfortable, but these two devices are more convenient than the triangle when using and carry, so they are deeply loved by many photographers. The correct posture taken with your hand If you can't put the camera on a stable and smooth surface, you must hold the camera to shoot, try to grab, steady. When using an optical viewfinder, take the camera with the forehead. The photographer who is glaring will make some adjustments, so that the distance between the camera and the forehead, preferably do not touch the plastic or metal camera portion to contact the lens, Because the camera is easily scratched. Next, the two legs are naturally separated, with the shoulders, so that the legs are nearly 45 degrees angles with the ground. Another way is that the shoulders are alive on a strong support, such as a tree, or back to the electric rod. And you can also consider sitting on the ground, kneeling on the ground, or on the ground, support with two elbows. Be sure to hold the camera with two hands, one hand is often less stable. Two hands are holding together, the effect is much better. The right hand can operate at any time, the index finger is lightly pressed on the shutter button, ready to expose.
When shooting a gallop, press the shutter, don't hesitate, be sure to clean, so you can reduce the camera shake. This process is likely to lock the focus and exposure because most auto focus / automatic exposure is to start the camera processor by activating the shutter button. If you press the shutter to lock the focus and exposure, you should learn to make a rapid response to the fast moving object, so there will be time to press the button completely, take a photo in time. When using today's portable camera, we generally hold the left side of the camera, because the lens is slow, the weight is also lighter, so these portable cameras are more likely to cause shake phenomena. Therefore, the main role of the left hand is to prevent the camera from shaking in the camera. It should be the bottom or lens of the camera from under the bottom, which is mainly based on the size and design of the camera, and the best way is the palm of palm, and hold the entire body of the camera.
6. "Digital Camera Photography Tips" With the continuous improvement of digital technology, digital cameras (DC) are no longer rare electronic products. Digital photography makes people put forward new requirements on the basis of the original shooting skills. Many primary users reflect: the pictures filmed by digital cameras, lack of vitality, noise, depth of field shallow [Editor Note: Compared with traditional cameras The photos of photos taken by digital cameras should be larger], bias, etc. But the photography is the bridge of the soul and light, and it is not easy to master traditional shooting skills. Let's let the author briefly describe the problem that the digital camera must pay attention to in shooting, and also tells the matter before and after shooting. 1. Browse the instruction manual, many users don't like the thick and cumbersome product manual, usually to explore itself after purchasing the digital camera. Of course, there will be some surprises during the exploration process, but this will spend a lot of time, and you can't understand the characteristics of your product in the shortest time system; if you read the instructions, you can avoid some error operations. Therefore, when you first contact new products, you should browse the manufacturer to make a compilation of your heart, familiar with the basic menus and functions of the digital camera. You can also turn over it in the future, there will be something to gain. 2, reasonable image format We are all clear, the quality of digital photos is related to pixels (resolution), the more image quality of the pixels, the better the image quality. If you output 4 "X6", about A6 size, you can meet the needs of the average person using 200-3 million. And if only the display of the computer 72 DPI is lower, the requirements are lower, the resolution is 1024x768, which is only 800,000 pixels, and any two million-level DC can be paid. Because the digital camera has limited storage space, we should choose the resolution reasonably for local conditions. 3, composition and thinking about the user of users with a certain understanding of the user, clearly understand the importance of accurate composition. Such as: If you are not shooting close-up, you should generally put the main body at 1/3 of the screen, try to avoid the messy background, shoot from a special perspective, try to capture the details and personality of the object, and use some oblique lines or curves. The background composition will make the overall picture look more vivid. In addition, we must be good at using two-dimensional eye observation. Because photography is expressed using two-dimensional space, it expresses a sense of space by a perspective relationship (that is, the shape of the light and shadow is referred to), which is different from two different angles to observe things from two different angles. However, most of the current digital cameras have LCD view screens, and its viewing rate is more than 90%, some close to 100%, such as 99% of S75. It can be clearly observed whether the spatial sense and the distance are sufficient, and it can make timely adjustments. 4, do not superstitious DC automatic mode first, and the other maximum difference between the traditional camera is a white balance. This is a bit similar to the color temperature in traditional photography, which is because beginners did not pay attention to this white balance, so they will produce. DC generally provides four models of automatic, indoor, outdoor, manual manual. Beginners trust auto, often taken pictures of a color, as long as we pay attention to the LCD view screen can be seen, so we still Use manual white balance as much as possible. In addition, some digital cameras also have functions of automatic surrounding white balance to record accurate color information. Second, the aperture and shutter control. It is recommended that manual mode should also be used if there is manual mode, because the pictures that are usually taken in automatic mode, especially the window, noise. Because when shooting indoors, the DC will generally automatically increase the ISO value, while the sensitivity is inversely compared to the image quality, the higher the equivalent sensitivity of the choice, the worse the image quality.
This is similar to the characteristics of conventional photosensitive materials, just in this characteristic performance on digital cameras. Therefore, when shooting with a digital camera, if you want to get good image quality, you should choose low sensitivity as much as possible. 5. Correctly use light, and the light conversation is the soul of photography. Therefore, we must pay attention to the change of light, not only the intensity of light, but also the direction of light, and dialogue with light. Such as: Setting the night into red, symbolizing the romance; the dark sky presents gray cold tones, symbolizing melancholy; withdrawing a bouquet of sunshine in the shade, transmitting joy, pleasing emotions ... The intensity of the resolved light is typically emitted by a single source, such as: sun, spotlight, flash or single bulb. In this illumination, the subject is large, the details and texture are protruded. You can use this light to get a documentary effect. In contrast, the light produced by the diffused light is soft. Indoor indirect illumination, the outdoor trees and cloudy days are this situation. It is ideal that shooting portraits and quiet outdoor scenery under this light condition. At the point of view of the optical angle, the texture of the subject will be strengthened or weakened accordingly, and the shape of the subject will be protruded or diluted. The tone of the photo is happy or melancholy, and it will vary depending on the angle of light. The rays projected from above or rear (usually called front light) will reduce the subject's level, because the front side is not conducive to creating high light and shadows. A preferred choice is to let the light source be partially on one side, and the subject is a side light of approximately 45 ° angles, it can express the shape and details of the subject. When the light is retracted from the subject, it is positively to the camera. The subject is rich in dramatic in reverse light. When shooting a portrait, the backlight produces a beautiful contour light on the margin of the character. The contrast can produce a silhouette. 6, a few misunderstandings are already Yellow flowers that don't think of professional photographers or those fanators, and tripods have no use of martial arts for digital cameras. Because you want to shoot a clear image, you must absolutely hold the camera when you take pictures, even if the slight jitter will cause ambiguous image, and we often have no hand to this effect, it is uncomfortable to eliminate this effect. Indifferent to later processing as long as appropriate use of image editing tools, such as Photoshop, etc., you can make those photos that are not outstanding. You can adjust the exposure image, correct color balance, cut off the background of dispersive attention, cover some small defects, and even synthesize several photos or images. 7. The knowledge is used in the use of value as much as possible to take some photos with different light conditions, then the results are the best under this condition. Professional photographers should always take several times when they take pictures, and we should do this every time you change the shooting angle or exposure time. Most digital cameras have an LCD display. You can use it easy to observe and delete images you don't like, so don't worry that you will cause insufficient storage due to "abuse", although you can take it! 7. The picture of the picture of the photographic pattern "photographic pattern is the balance of composition. In daily life, everyone may have the following experience: a chair tilted giving people a unstable feeling, worried about sitting down will wrestle. Most of the solemn, dignity things are very symmetrical, such as the stone lion in the door of the ancient palace, give people dignity and majesty, it is the existence of a pair, giving people a sense of beauty. Therefore, the picture equilibrium of the photographing work is very important in the composition. 1. Symmetrical and equalization symmetry in the screen symbolizes a high degree of height. For example, butterflies, its shape and wings pattern, have always appreciated people.
The symmetrical screens in photographics are often visible, especially in the stage photography. But most of the photographs are not the symmetry of half the symmetry in the composition, but is a visual equilibrium of the picture. Because in the composition of photography, the absolute symmetry will give people a still, cauting and monotonous feeling, and the aesthetic requirements in life are still equal to the pursuit. Excessive use symmetry will make people feel tall, lack of vitality. The balance is to break the oversteaded situation, and it has a "all" side, and there is a flexible side. The balanced range includes comparison of the image of the composition, people, people, people, large and small, moving and quiet and dark, high and low, virtual and unity. The equilibrium of the structure is that the scenery of each part in the screen must have echo, there is a control, and achieve balance and stability. The balance of the screen structure, except for the size, light weight, but also the role of light and dark, lines, space, tuning ... etc. 2. The primary relationship of the primary relationship is photographing life, mainly in characters, so the relationship between the main body and the accompanying, the main character and the relationship of the character and the background of the primary characters are mainly in the design picture. A photo If there is only a subject, there is no accompanying, the picture will appear without changing, but the accompanying body can't be hidden; the body must be significantly prominent on the picture, to abandon the simply, if necessary, change the shooting position and angle, or Move unnecessary things to achieve a simple picture, highlight the body. Some people are drowned with a messy background, and the characters of the subject are squeezed while it is unfortunate. On the main relationship of the photo screen, you can master the following two points: 1 If you encounter a messy background, you can take an enlarged aperture, so that the back of the back is unclear to highlight the body. 2 Select the appropriate angle to shoot, avoid the messy background, can make the figure of the characters outstout. 3. The use of "gold segmentation" in the composition, the so-called "golden segmentation", that is, "gold ratio" A: B = B: A B, which is used in the composition of art and photography, often mentioning 5: 8 ratio, For practical, especially the composition of photography, it is already accurate enough. In the specific photographic composition, it can be applied to the plot comparison, the virtuality comparison, the main comparison, and the size of the size. The role of golden segmentation 1 Treatment of stabilization of good pictures stabilizes in the horizontal line of the general point in photography, whether the vertical line is correct. 2 Handling the space on the blank blank point of the picture, usually in the picture of the moving body, you must pay attention to the front of the moving direction to have a certain blank, which helps to strengthen the sportiness of the movement. When shooting, there must be a certain space in front of the line of characters, so it will not leave the feeling of hindrance. 3 Adjust the location of the visual focus on that part of the most attractive part is the visual center. To highlight the main image, it is necessary to arrange in the location of the visual center.
8. Frequently Asked Questions of Charger Charger Answer us here to answer some common questions about the charger. We only discuss the most commonly used nickel-hydrogen batteries and nickel-cadmium battery chargers, excluding the latest lead-acid batteries and lithium-ion battery chargers. 1. What is the difference between the speed charger and the fast charger? There is no significant difference in the comparison of the two. In the battery industry, there is no clear definition of these two chargers. Therefore, manufacturers often mix them. One question is that the time full of batteries depends on the capacity of the charging battery. A AAA nickel-cadmium battery (180 MAH) charger that takes 1 hour is filled with a standard capacity may take 8 hours to full of high-capacity nickel-hydrogen batteries (1500 mAh). The best way is to ignore these differences, roughly calculate the time required for the charger full of batteries. Two, how long does it take to spend more than a time? We can easily calculate the time spent on the charger. With the capacity of the battery, simply divide the charger's charging efficiency, then increase 20% as an invalid working time. For example, the charger using a charger of 500mA is 4 hours to be filled with 1600mAh battery, and the calculated seon is 1600 mAh / 500 mA x120%. This example may be accidentally suitable for the case of the speed charger charging for the standard 5 nickel-hydrogen battery. Remember, if a battery is only partially discharged, it is clear that we only need to spend less time to fully charge it. If you think this is too complicated, you can use our special battery charging time calculator: http://www.greenbatteries.com/documents/charge_time_calculator.htm. You only need to enter the two consecutive values of the above. Then press Calculate (calculate), and the result will appear immediately in the window before Hours (hour). three, will it harm to the battery using the charger (will reduce battery life or reduce battery use effect)? Yes. The most common charging failure is that the charging time is too long and is commonly called overcharge. There is a charger that is particularly prone to excessive charging, usually more than 5 hours (some 8 hours) battery will be scrapped, which is called "speed charger". This charger problem is that there is no charging control device. Most of the fast chargers are often designed very simple, which is generally charged with a maximum rate, and the charging time is also fixed, usually 5 or 8 hours is full. Then you should turn off them, or turn to the slow trickle charging rate. If you use the charger correctly, it usually has little damage to the battery. If there is no correct use, the charger usually shortens the battery life in two ways. First, it is envisaged to put the battery after full charge and the partial charging in the charger. But the charger does not know that there is electricity in the battery. So it is still fully charged the battery. We rarely put partially charged batteries into the charger, because this is easy to confuse the battery, and put the charged battery in the charger inadvertently. If you charge the battery filled with electricity multiple times, its performance will slowly decrease. In addition, in general, the charging cycle is unstable, it is easy to interrupt. We usually pull the charger to see how the battery is heat. Then, plug the charger back. Unfortunately, this will usually lead to restarting the complete charging cycle, and the front charging cycle has been completed. This often reduces battery life. In order to avoid these issues, we can use a smart charger that has microprocessor control. The smart charger usually decides when the battery is full of electricity, and then completely turns off the charger or steering trickle charging according to the design.
four, what is trickle charging (install the battery slow and continuously charged)? In theory, trickle charging means that a charging rate is high to allow the battery to be fully charged, which is low to avoid overcharged charging. Maintaining charging is also a way to describe trickle charging. 5. Is the trickle charging damage to the battery? Many battery manufacturers are advised not to use trickle charging for a long time. If you use trickle charging, the charging rate will be very low and sometimes it is disconnected. When charging the battery, the best smart charger can only perform a temporary charging rate change. They have no continuous low rate charging. Some battery dealers say that if long-term trickle charging, only one-tenth of the battery energy will not be injured. However, we have not seen any manufacturers to conduct such tests. It is best to fully charge the battery, then store it. Do not perform additional trickle charging. So unexpected damage. sixth, speed charging will reduce the life of the battery? is not very serious. As long as you use an appropriate smart charger, you can fully charge the almost all kinds of nickel-hydrogen batteries within about an hour, and there is no damage, the battery life will not be significantly reduced, which may reduce less than 10%. . Obviously, this is always much better than using a slow speed charger. However, it is only possible to quickly charge most nickel-hydrogen batteries using specially designed nickel-hydrogen battery chargers. In addition, the speed charger designed for nickel-cadmium batteries is likely to overcharge the nickel-hydrogen battery. What is the difference between seven, nickel-hydrogen battery chargers and nickel-cadmium battery chargers? The biggest difference is that the charging rate (the speed of charge charging is charged), and charging control (how to stop charging). Many cheap nickel-hydrogen battery chargers have been simple to transform, which is a nickel-cadmium battery charger. Typically, a 5-hour nickel-cadmium battery has a switch that allows charging time from 5 hours to 8 hours. Thus, a 5-hour nickel-cadmium battery charger becomes an 8-hour nickel-hydrogen battery charger. We are not here to use this charger. However, a timing charger is less than a smart charger. If the battery is frequently charged prior to discharging (that is, the battery only uses a short time, then immediately charged), the timing charger usually results in overcharge, or battery damage. The nickel-hydrogen battery intelligent charger is actually specifically detected that the nickel-hydrogen battery is full. Then, turn off the switch or steering trickle charging mode. Obviously, this is more complex circuit. Therefore, this type of charger takes more time and money. However, it may extend the life of the battery. Some smart chargers are only a little more costs than the timing charger. We strongly recommend that when you want to buy a smart charger, investigate its compatibility with nickel-hydrogen or nickel-cadmium batteries. Eight, can I use the old nickel-cadmium battery charger to charge the nickel-hydrogen battery? The answer to this question depends on the type of nickel cadmium charger. Due to this dependency, the old nickel-cadmium battery charger may not fill the nickel-hydrogen battery (it is very likely), almost impossible to overcharge, or charge the nickel-hydrogen battery appropriately (but it It is impossible to process, the result is still a long time). Let us look at these three situations. Many "old" nickel-cadmium battery chargers are simple timing chargers, and charging time is fixed. When the time arrives, it is automatically closed. Unfortunately, because the nickel-cadmium battery is smaller than the nickel-hydrogen battery, when the time standard for the nickel-cadmium battery is used to charge the nickel-hydrogen battery, charging may be suspended in advance. Although this will not hurt the battery, the nickel-hydrogen battery will not be fully charged, because the timer is solely fixed. The charger stops charging, obviously too early. The charging cycle will be shortened.
In addition, in the older nickel-cadmium battery charger, there is a very ordinary charger, which is the so-called "all night" charger. As long as the charger is powered on, its charging rate is very low. Such chargers can be fully charged for nickel-hydrogen batteries, but it may take a long time. An old nickel-cadmium battery charger is likely to spend 48 hours to fully charge the new high capacitance nickel hydrogen battery! Such chargers are almost impossible to damage the nickel-hydrogen battery unless it is placed in the charger in the charger, but it is not convenient to use. If you have this type of charger, you should make a simple charging time as simple as the above formula, but ultimately we may choose an older nickel-cadmium battery charger: speed charger. It charges the nickel-hydrogen battery without excessive circuitry. Because once the battery is full, the charging cycle stops, recorded. If the nickel-cadmium battery charger will fully charge the battery within 2 hours, it can be said to be a fast charger. In this case, the only risk is: the older fast charger may overcharge the nickel-hydrogen battery. If the battery becomes hot in the charging cycle, then this is a sign of excessive charging (in general, when the nickelicide battery is sufficiently charged, it will become warm, especially when using a fast charger. If the nickel hydrogen battery becomes too hot, we cannot process it in time. After 20 or 30 minutes, the nickel-cadmium battery charger is likely to overcharge the nickel-hydrogen battery, and the battery life will be shortened. If the charger charges the rapid rechargeable radio battery, you are likely to meet this type of charger. We recommend not charging nickel-hydrogen batteries using a nickel-cadmium battery.
9. Eight ways to protrude in the photographic composition to protrude the easiest way to protrude the main body in the center of the picture. The entire photo has a special stability due to the central part of the rectangular screen. Soviet photographer A Deco pointed out that this main body is located in the picture center of the picture, is one of the most effective art methods of processing the subject. However, when using this composition method, it should be quite carefully arranged. With the object, because the main body is placed in the geometry center of the picture, the photo will tend to look more tall. For example, some beginner photographers often arrange the subject in the center of the viewing range, and let it face the camera, look around the lens. The results of the results appeared, and the screen left a size of the same size. This composition method is more suitable for photographing the subject matter of motion. Deke generally adopted a method of protruding the subject in photography practice, summarizing the following: 1. Take a close-up of the main performance object or close to the middle of the close-up, which requires a short-distance shooting, the screen range is just a small space. 2. Configure the main body in the foreground so that the picture can contain a large space to become a panoramic photo. 3. Make the subject and the background have appropriate differences on the shadow or hue, or form a distinct contrast. 4. Use the rays to emphasize the main part in the composition to make it the highest brightness. 5. Accurately focus on the main body, so that the secondary part or the background will lose clarity. 6. Make the main line in the screen to the intention of the center, and emphasize with spot, this method is mostly used to express interior. 7. Set the main body in the center of the picture or close to the center. If there is no particularly eye-catching thing, the audience will pay attention to the main body. 8. Use the shooting angle to emphasize the main body. However, it is important to note that no extraction angle or elevation angle is applied. Deke believes that light is the most effective modeling means, which can be fully utilized to emphasize the subject. Some of the following light conditions can protrude the stereo shape, space sensing and surface structure of the body. For example, a dark foreground and a brighter background. It can emphasize the space of the subject; the contour shape of the dark body can be well depicted on the context of talking; the same, the pastel body will look very clear on dark background; The alternating changes in the huntess tuning hierarchy on the surface of the object, so that the object is similar to the original, and therefore, the photo also shows the actual subject. American photographer Catherine Caul Hobham pointed out that the audience often pays attention to the bright part of the photo while watching the photo, and it will think that this is a fun center. Therefore, when the subject is trapped in the shadow, he proposed two ways to select a selectable protruding body "The most feasible method is to close the subject and try to avoid a bright area around. If it is not, The subject can be slightly illuminated with auxiliary flash, or when the light contrast is not too large, the additional light is reflected on the body using a white reflective plate or the mirror. This will also help. Even the photo exposure Excessive, that is, according to the shadow site, so that the brightest portion in the picture is lost, although the latter skill is more difficult, but in some case, it may be a good way to deal with insufficient illumination, because It can weaken the color of the background. "10. The aperture is mainly controlled by the camera. The amount of the aperture size and shutter speed, the aperture is a mechanical device that can change the intermediate hole size in the camera lens, and the brightness of the image is mainly due to the lens The aperture size and focal length are controlled, and usually people will measure the scales of the lens focal length and the aperture value are referred to as F-STOP, and the following is a few different F-STOP values of the lens:
The shutter is a mechanical or electronic device that controls the length of the film exposure time, usually the shutter device is designed in the body or the lens. Under normal circumstances, it usually uses a fast shutter speed when shooting a stationary object, usually using 1/125 seconds or faster shutter speed; when shooting a fast-moving object, a slow shutter speed is usually used, and 1/60 is usually used. Second or slower shutter speed. Here, it is necessary to point out the object of shooting movement If the shutter is turned too long, the moving object is imaged in different parts of the film or the CCD sensor, and the photos taken can be unclear, and when the shutter speed is very fast, sports The imaging of the object on the film has not been obvious. The exposure process has been completed, and the photo effect is relatively clear, so it is equivalent to solidifying the motion of the movement in the picture, so everyone is trying to choose a fast shutter when shooting the moving object. Speed, then adjust the size of the aperture to perform correct exposure, if you want the moving object to leave a moving trajectory on the film to enhance the dynamic, you can choose a relatively slow shutter speed. The related pictures of this topic are as follows: This topic is related to the following:
11. When shooting, you should pay attention to what to take a photo does not care about the camera, I don't know what shot you use? There are a few points for your reference: 1. Take a photo, the first row is 姿, mostly the unit-free female compatriots. The middle-placed seats are superiors and unit leaders, specialist, general party secretary and administrative one in the middle (if there are higher levels of superiors, the unit leadership is bilayer), and the rest is divided into two sides, If there is also a space, it can be filled by the remaining female compatriots. Please lead the leader in the knee leg, try not to be passionate. Female leaders can overlap their hands with their hands. Note: Try to choose the beautiful young woman in the long-distance Terminal, you are sitting in front of the head or next to the head (try to see how the most beautiful girl in his head is in his body) The third row is normal. In addition to men, you can also stand by the female compatriots, or to put beautiful arrangements after the leadership, the truth is as before, the fourth row stands on the small bench, the bench shelf (or the stepped shelf, cement stairs and other objects). Queuing should collapse: High-stop middle, decrease in both sides, the people in the back row are listed in the middle of the shoulders of the two people, pay attention not to occlude. For the compactness of the station, people on both sides can slightly tap the body, and the shoulders are loose stack. Third rows of people can save space behind them. 2. Lens Selection: Do not be more than 28mm, because the wide angle angle is larger, the greater the probability of deformation of both sides. The lens center axis and the arrangement team have a ninety-degree right angle and is facing the main leadership. Conditionally supported tripod, An An on the shutter line, the best aperture of the lens, the main leadership of the second row focused, so that all the photos of all the photos have contained in front and rear depths. After the light is focused, if it is an AF camera, push it to the MF end, switch to the m file. 3. Time and light position: It can be used in the afternoon, but to avoid several phenomena, one is to avoid the eyes of all personnel in the sun, resulting in a blind eye, etc., the second is to avoid the blunt luck sunshine from top to vent Next, shadows in the next eye, the nose, the chin, etc., this is a big taboo. The picture is optimal with scattered light. The position of the position and the second row of leaders is quite a little slightly higher, so that the leader's eyes will be bigger because they are lifted. 4. Generally, you will choose a special building as a background, so pay attention to the shooting box, and avoid incoming some unnecessary things. The so-called shooting is that it is necessary to pay attention to all the feet of the first row of squatting people in the view box, and avoid too many spaces between the feet and the lens. At the same time, be sure to top the top of the building house behind the last row. Sustain a little space on both sides, you can freely waste. 5. Do not use the flash, because the flash of the flash is attenuated due to distance, covering the angle is not so big, the hard use effect is not necessarily good. 6. Before shooting, check the team type of the station to block the phenomenon of the face and adjust it in time. Remind all the attention of the lens or photographer, first, please feel the eyes, then open, then shout "one, two ...", you don't have to shout, you can press the shutter, because shout " During the time, everyone's attention has been highly concentrated, and the expected results can be achieved. If the photographer can let everyone know "Eggplant!" When you just read "Sola", I saw it from the photo. 7. Try to use tripods and shutter lines, because after the arrangement of the team is scheduled, the staff station fixation will not overflow the viewing range. You can leave your eyes away, hold the shutter line to watch the shutter to start the attitude expression of everyone, there is no overlapping eyes and other indispensable.
8. The picture cannot be performed, and you will make you don't move, let the two female youth of the front row to change the picture differences in the later period. Hurry and then come again, I will take two to three to three. Four more than you have complained that leaders will not be impatient. 12. Comprehensive analysis of digital camera shooting "red eye" phenomenon if you often shoot people's work, I believe you will have to encounter this situation, take a beautiful MM photo, but I found that the MM eye found red, The original beautiful MM has an overall effect due to ugly "red eye". What is the phenomenon of this "red eye" you will not be strange? So how is this "red eye" phenomenon? How to avoid rationally? The generation of "red eye" is due to the difference due to the flash of the flash and the optical axis of the lens. The pupil of the person will be changed accordingly under the conditions of the external light, and when the flash of the flash passes through the pupil, they are dense. The fine blood vessels showed a bright red reflected in the light shine, and the natural phenomenon of "red dot" on the eyes is "red eye." Many DCs or FCs are now focusing on the design of light and short, easy to carry, so the flash is relatively nice. I believe that everyone has seen the "fool" camera's built-in flash next to the lens, even if the "Top Light" of SLR cameras can "jump", it is still not far from the lens. In short, as long as it is designed with the angle between the lens and the flash, it is easy to form an annoying "red eye" phenomenon. In response to this "red eye" phenomenon, many digital cameras also made the corresponding "countermeasures". The general digital camera eliminates the "red eye" function mainly through the flash of the flash, which causes the pupil to do some degree of contraction to reduce the red light reflected back. Although this method can effectively reduce the phenomenon of "red eye", it is actually extremely limited, not really completely eliminating or avoiding the occurrence of "red eye". Reasonably avoid the "red eye" phenomenon in addition to the camera flash prevail or made some technical improvements, the more effective method is to use a diffuse light, let the flash do some degree of refraction (shouting to the ceiling, refraction in portraits) Or use the external flash, increase the distance between the lens and the flash, can effectively eliminate red eye
13. Exposure compensation theory knowledge explains some theoretical knowledge about exposure compensation, commonly known as EV adjustment. Speaking of the theory, let us automatically measure light and exposure compensation in the next time. Before explaining exposure compensation, I will explain to you with you, which is exposed. Since my explanation is for QV4000, ISO is not considered for the time being. Friends of other machines can test themselves and believe that the impression will be deeper. In addition, since the QV4000 will intelligently adjust the shutter speed, it is not necessarily an integer, but I am easy to understand, and the newcomer is easy to understand. It may not be a good experimental spirit, but our purpose is not to prove anything, but a popular knowledge. The so-called exposed volume is expose value, is it just something familiar? In fact, EV is the abbreviation of Expose Value. So the so-called EV adjustment is the exposure amount adjustment, understand? A view is to shoot a photo, there will always have a suitable amount of radiation. If you don't quite, you will have an insufficient exposure. The opposite of the black black is exposed, and the picture is white. How can I make the picture are exposed? The key is to choose the correct aperture and shutter. To find the same fluid, the aperture from F2.0 to 2.8, 4.0, 5.6, 8.0, please firmly remember) each narrowed, the shutter speed is twice. The aperture is better than the diameter of the water dragon, and the exposure time is equivalent to the time of water. The slime of the water dragon is small. In order to find the same water, there is a longer water time. Below we use images. Suppose the correct exposure of a picture can be obtained by F4.0, the shutter speed 1/320 settings can then be launched in F2.8, 1/640 and F5.6, 1/160 we can get exactly the same When shooting the same scene, if the exposure is the same, they must be the same as the shape of the shape! The above theory is the so-called incision rate, but please don't remember that this theory will happen when the shutter time is too short (less than 1/1000 seconds) or too long (more than 1 second). Incorrect. In summary, in order to find a correct exposure, we can have a combination of apertures and shutters. The so-called camera automatic file (AUTO), the P-file is the camera to choose a suitable combination, including aperture and shutter; the aperture priority (A file), that is, the aperture first, then the camera is given through the ambient light You determine a suitable shutter speed; and the shutter priority (S) is the photographer first determines the shutter, then the camera is calculated to you to determine a suitable aperture through the ambient light. The manual file (M file) is completely set by yourself.
14. What is the quality of the aperture / shutter priority photo is related to the amount of expansion, that is, the light should make the CCD to obtain a clear image. The exposure is related to the light time (shutter speed determination), the light area (aperture size decision). Then, in order to get the correct amount of exposure, the correct shutter is needed to combine the combination of the aperture. When the shutter is fast, the aperture is large; when the shutter is slow, the aperture is small. The shutter is preferred to calculate the value of the amount of exposure to the machine automatic light system, and then automatically decide how much aperture is automatically decided according to your selected shutter speed. The aperture is preferred to calculate the value of the amount of expansion by the machine automatic light system, and then automatically decides how much shutter according to your selected aperture size. Manual mode means you specify the size of the aperture and the speed of the shutter. The larger the aperture, the more light passed through the unit time, the less it. The general representation of the aperture is the letter "f value", such as F5.6, F4, etc. It should be noted here that the smaller the value, the greater the aperture, such as F4, is larger than the aperture of F5.6, and between two adjacent aperture values, that is, F4 is passed by F5.6. The light is twice as large. Relatively speaking, the definition of the shutter is very simple, that is, the way the light is allowed to pass through the aperture, and the means is a value, such as 1/30 seconds, 1/60 seconds, etc., the same two adjacent shutters are twice. . The combination of the aperture and shutter forms an exposure, and in the case of exposure, this combination is not unique. For example, the currently measured normal exposure combination is f5.6, 1/30 seconds. If the aperture is increased at the first level, the shutter value will be changed to 1/60, such a combination can also achieve normal. The exposure amount. Although different combinations can reach the same exposure, the picture effect being photographed is different. Here is the concept of "depth of field". The so-called depth of field means that when the lens is focused on the subject, the subject and its front and rear scene have a clear range, which is called a depth of field. After understanding the basic concepts of the aperture, shutter and depth of field, when the aperture is limited or the shutter is not difficult. The aperture is preferred to manually define the size of the aperture, and then obtain the corresponding shutter value using the camera's metering. Since the size of the aperture directly affects the depth of view, this mode is used in the usual shooting. When shooting portraits, we generally use a large-scale long focal length to achieve a blind background to obtain a brighterage, which can highlight the body. At the same time, a large aperture can also get a fast shutter value, thereby increasing the stability of the handheld shooting. When shooting pictures of the scene, we tend to use a smaller aperture value, so the range of scenery is relatively wide, which can make distant and close scenes clear, and this is also applicable when shooting night scenes. In contrast to the aperture, the shutter is preferred to obtain a diaphragm value by performing light by the camera in the case of manually defining the shutter. The shutter is more commonly used in shooting motors, especially in sports shooting. Many friends find that the subjects that are often blurred when shooting moving objects, which is blurred, which is because the speed of the shutter is not fast enough. In this case you can use the shutter priority mode to probably determine a fast door value, and then shoot. And the operation of the object is generally regular, the value of the shutter can also be estimated, such as shooting the pedestrian, the shutter speed is only 1/125 seconds, and the droplets that shoot drops are 1/1000 seconds. In the case where the aperture is preferred, we can easily control the depth of view by changing the size of the aperture, and in the case of shutter, using different apertures to achieve a good shooting effect. Both of these must be flexible to meet the shooting requirements in our different situations.
15. EV adjustment is also the application exposure compensation of exposure compensation, that is, when the machine is in a fully manual file (A, S, P), it has passed the automatic measurement of a 馊 烀 楹 楹 希 Help, ┑ 髡? NBSP; so remember 1. Manual (m) cannot exist EV adjustment, because the exposure compensation itself is adjusted for the results of automatic metering. If you are all manually set, you can achieve the goal by changing the aperture shutter value by yourself. 2. Exposure compensation is actually adjusted to the speed of the aperture or open the door. In the QV4000, it is assumed that the automatic measurement result is F2.0, 1/1000 seconds, this time you adjust the EV does not take effect, because the shutter and the aperture have reached the limit. I have replied a friend who didn't figure out the basic concept in the gray mirror. So, what is the relationship between adjusting EV and changing the speed of the aperture shutter? should be. Each of the EV is low, that is, -1.0ev or 1.0 eV means that the exposure amount is doubled or decreased. In other words, the aperture is lowered or an increased one gear, or the shutter speed is accelerated or doubled. And 0.3, 0.7 These adjustments are between the adjustments of the whole file. We can prove through experiments. First we use aperture priority to shoot. Set the aperture of F4, the QV4000 is automatically measured, and the shutter speed is 1/200 (in actually 1/204, but we will take the convenience here), then we adjust the exposure compensation to 1.0ev, Take a piece of QV4000 set the door to 1/100. That is, in the case where the aperture is determined, the opening time is doubled for each step. Similarly, we see if we adjust the exposure compensation to -1.0EV shooting, the shutter speed becomes 1/400, which is 1.1 times. The shutter can also be pushed in the same way. In the P file, the change may be that the aperture is also possible to be a shutter. Therefore, the exposure compensation can be done, the manual file can be done, as long as it is slightly changed to the aperture or shutter based on the normal exposure combination. In order to actually prove that the manual file that the exposure compensation can do can do it, I also made a test. The shooting parameters were F4.0, 1/320 seconds. After adjusting a negative exposure compensation, ie -1.0ev, the shooting results are shown in Figure 10, and the aperture shutter combination is F4.0, 1/640 seconds. Then I took the manual file to shoot the same scene, use F4.0, 1/640, is it all exactly the same? Therefore, the exposure compensation is definitely not a means of increasing brightness under the same aperture shutter combination! (Except for ISO auto-adjustment machine), say, what night view is afraid of hand shake, no matter how exposed enough, set fast shutter speed, then increase EV, you can send a suitable rather than a photo. Since the aperture arrives, the EV adjustment is equivalent to failure. Remind, EV adjustment is best in P-gear and A file. Because if you do so, the corresponding change will be aperture, but the aperture has a total of several files, it is difficult to adapt to the fine-tuning of 0.3, 0.7. The result is that the shutter speed does not change, this is very good for the shutter speed Strict occasions are not suitable. Also, after adjusting the EV, the change in the histogram is translational throughout the peak, as if these peak levels move ( EV), or horizontally moving (-ev), the shape of the peak does not change . This answered why the histogram shape has no change. 16. Purple murder Raiders full version of purple side: Pursuing the source: This article is suitable for people with enthusiasm for theory, and the interest of pure theoretical research should not be the famous Einstein professor.
As for friends who only want to start from actual, solve basic problems, you can jump directly to the bottom of interest, or surely, or surely. Regarding the formation of purple, there is no conclusion. But some basic elements are certain. As long as there is a general understanding of the traditional camera and digital camera, there is a probably understanding of people should not guess the original. In fact, I understand these, it is not difficult to explain why digital cameras (including many digital SLR cameras) is difficult to avoid, but almost no more attention in traditional cameras. It is nothing more than the matching problem of the photosensitive system and the lens; the photosensitive element (which is a single "pixel") in the image sensor (the data processing of the DC is usually used ... so the factors such as this. Let's crack one by one below. Just now, we have said that all the words are performed in this question. Even some "authority" is also inevitably biased. So we introduce several explanations that can be self-circular in order to let readers accept news from multi-partial news. All those who can "change the world, the ancients, and the words" Our [Nomad] in his masterpiece "Dial the cloud" - On the true root cause of "Zi Bian" question "The reason for purple Bide is analyzed:" Zi-Bian phenomenon in DC / DV, correct understanding, root cause There are two points: 1, diffraction 2, MOSAIC mask filter type CCD color interpolation. These two points, diffraction is a guide, true is CCD! "Very disappointing. More details, please click here. Attached: On the root of "purple" problem: (1) The appearance of the problem uses a digital camera or a digital camera, everyone may often find that in the photo of the high contrast large backlight object, the edge of the object has a glare "purple side" "(Purple fringing), this, almost most of the DC and DV have this problem, no confident, the difference is only a problem, and some are very serious. This problem has been troubled for a long time. (2) Arguing and explaining this problem that plasted everyone N for a long time, I want to solve it, first get the root cause of the problem, where is the culprit? Baihua Qi put hundreds of pairs, all kinds of explanations have emerged, and some are the lens quality problems. Some said that it is an optical dispersion problem. Some said that it is a software algorithm. Hold a word, and the meaning is that every statement, sounds It is a bit reason, but it is not perfect to explain all the phenomena and problems. You are a lens problem, but the traditional silver salt film has never had such problems, even if it is a TOM camera of more than 100 plastic lenses; you said it is an optical tone problem, the performance of dispersion is not this, very It is barely; you said that it is a software algorithm problem. It is a bit reasonable. It can do not seem to be a fundamental reason, and the algorithm problem is not so difficult to solve. I was also confused. At the time, I saw Phil Asky's definition and explanation of Phil Asky on the definition and explanation of Phil Asky on Zi - Chromatic Aberration, seeing very reasonable at first glance. However, the problem is why only DC is available. DV has this problem, and Phil's explanation has not been able to answer this question. Slowly, with the in-depth understanding of the DC and DV imaging principles, especially the prompts of Foveon's X3 CMOS technology on PMA2002, I found that Phil's explanation can be said to be a lot of trouble.
Chromatic aberration, a clear definition is that the lens optical error, in principle, the lens imaging varies depending on the wavelength of light or other radiation varies, there are two kinds, one is Axial Chromatic Aberration, the other is Transverse Chromatic Aberration, which causes white light "dispersion" into a spot or rainbow-shaped light side. Specifically, in the photo, the edge of the image is originally simple white, because the color difference is changed to RGB three primary colors cannot overlap in the same line. From the phenomenon, Chromatic Aberration can explain the purple edge problem, but Chromatic Aberration can't explain why it is very different from the same lens, DC / DV and traditional silver salt cameras. (3) Caught the true murder of "Purple", the phenomenon of purple-like phenomenon appearing on DC / DV, the root causes are as follows: 1. Diffraction 2. MOSAIC mask filter CCD color interpolation, diffraction is a guide, true is CCD! In this two points, it is analyzed: Diffraction, learned universal physics - optical understanding, a basic characteristic of a light wave, its theoretical basis is a wave, there is a certain wavelength. When the light passes through some small holes or slits, the optical wave dispersion occurs in the edge of the object. Thus, the high contrast is high backlight, and when strong light passes through its edge, a diffraction phenomenon (coloring edge) has been generated, and then the lens imaging is passed. Therefore, it is wrong to assault the color lace to the lens. Ok, the fire is coming out, the same optical diffraction, why do it become a thorn purple side on DC / DV? In fact, with it is called purple, science, it should be called the red side, Hehe, through Photoshop's color analysis of "purple", can find that most of the major constituent is magenta (Magenta, CMYK four colors One) How does these purple-only (or ocean red sides appear? - Purple, is due to the high contrast of high backlight still life, producing optical diffraction, plus the inherent defects of DC / DV CCDs in color interpolation! Analysis The current CCD (except for foveon x3 cmos) is MOSAIC mask type, the CCD itself does not sense color, through the RGB (or CYGM) filter in front of each pixel, a pixel only R, G, B One of the primary color density, then coloring interpolation processing inside the software, using the peripheral pixel information "guess" interpolated other colors. (Detailed CCD imaging principle is not the focus of this article, you can refer to other professional articles), pay attention! The key point to generate a purple side is in this color interpolation process! This interpolation process is not possible to completely reflect the true color distribution (as the purple side is the diffraction portion generated by the edge), the algorithm in the camera can only pass the true full color distribution through the periphery pixels ", this It also caused a series of problems such as unclear edges, color interference, as well as glazing.
